Why the future of fashion might involve wearing live fungi
tags:
The idea of having living fungi cover your body might not be the most appealing thing in the world. But what if it was part of a clothing fabric that could change color, protect you from UV rays and even repair its own tears? Those are just some of the possibilities of a new material described in a paper published in the journal Science.
A research team, primarily from the Chinese Academy of Sciences, successfully created flexible sheets of fabric using the threadlike mycelium of the fungus Cordyceps militaris, commonly known as the caterpillar fungus.
This is not the first attempt to make materials from fungus, but previous efforts have often failed because the manufacturing process killed the cells, resulting in a fragile final product. In this study, the authors took a different approach by keeping the fungus alive.
Growing the material
The scientists grew the fungus in a liquid nutrient broth until it naturally clustered into tiny, uniform pellets. They then poured the pellets into molds and dried them into flat sheets. Because the sheets are naturally brittle and snap easily, they added glycerol to soften them. These low-energy drying and softening processes removed moisture but left the fungus metabolically active.
Now they had their flexible living material. Next, the researchers set out to see what it was capable of. They showed it could be given different colors by attaching engineered pigment-making yeast to the fungal fibers. In another experiment, they added a second, melanin-rich fungus to the surface, giving the material built-in UV protection.
Fungal fashion?
The scientists also created a prototype dress capable of healing its own wounds. If the fabric gets torn, applying a few drops of water and a patch of fresh fungal pellets triggers the living cells to grow across the gap. But that's not all.
When liquid nutrient droplets were deposited onto the surface of the living textile in specific shapes, the fungus sprouted new layers of fluffy fibers only where the nutrients were applied. This allowed the team to create designs such as leaves and even a logo for the Shenzhen Institute of Advanced Technology.
"This study establishes a fabrication paradigm that preserves cellular viability to create freestanding fungal textiles, thereby integrating structural integrity with programmable biological functions," the researchers wrote in their paper.
To test how the material breaks down after use, the team built a small box out of the living fabric and buried it in soil. It degraded almost completely within 41 days.
Not yet shop-ready
While the results were promising, the scientists point out that this is an early laboratory demonstration, not yet a ready-to-wear garment. They did not test it for daily wear and tear, whether it's comfortable or breathable, or how well it holds up in a washing machine.
If the fabric eventually clears these hurdles, the researchers envision garments made from it as more suitable for short-term wear than everyday clothing.
"Rather than targeting long-lifetime wearable garments, these materials are more naturally suited to short-term or single-use textile-like systems where environmental sustainability is prioritized," added the researchers.
Written for you by our author Paul Arnold, edited by Gaby Clark, and fact-checked and reviewed by Robert Egan—this article is the result of careful human work. We rely on readers like you to keep independent science journalism alive. If this reporting matters to you, please consider a donation (especially monthly). You'll get an ad-free account as a thank-you.
Publication details
Ke Li et al, A programmable fungal platform for engineered living textiles, Science Advances (2026). DOI: 10.1126/sciadv.aed6937
Who's behind this story?
BSc Biology from University of London. BBC documentary producer with world travel experience. Freelances from southern Spain. Full profile →
MA in English, copy editor since 2021 with experience in higher education and health content. Dedicated to trustworthy science news. Full profile →
Bachelor's in mathematical biology, Master's in creative writing. Well-traveled with unique perspectives on science and language. Full profile →
© 2026 Science X Network
Citation: Why the future of fashion might involve wearing live fungi (2026, July 27) retrieved 27 July 2026 from https://phys.org/news/2026-07-future-fashion-involve-fungi.html
This document is subject to copyright. Apart from any fair dealing for the purpose of private study or research, no part may be reproduced without the written permission. The content is provided for information purposes only.